Designer

Designer File: Molly Goddard

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Since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2012, Molly Goddard has gone on to become one of London’s most talked about young designers. Her clothes have been worn by the likes of Rihanna and Agyness Deyn; celebrities with a taste for the one-of-a-kind and an interest in supporting up and coming designers. However, it was not until September last year that the first Molly Goddard fashion show took place. Previously, Goddard had only ever shown presentations, subverting their dull reputation with parties and life-drawing classes taking places around the models wearing the clothes.

Goddard moves within the same universe as film director, Sofia Coppola, who is known for her dreamy representation of female adolescence through films like The Virgin Suicides and The Bling Ring. Goddard’s love for tulle and pastels informs her sugar-coated aesthetic that celebrates the mysterious charm of girlhood.

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Whilst romanticised, it is clear that her clothes are not designed through the male gaze. Sometimes designers appropriate subcultures, but West London native Goddard designs clothes from a world that she understands. Her designs are sympathetic and realistic, as demonstrated through her use of uncoventional and lesser known models, which is a refreshing break from bigger designers’ obsession with Instagram famous it-girls. Her fascination with adolescent nostalgia is relateable for whole generation of girls and young women who grew up with Rookie Mag, Lorde and noughties coming-of-age teen flicks.

Goddard’s latest collection was a celebration of London night life. The exuberance of her fashion show rave was made more poignant and harrowing by the recent closure of Fabric and the government’s attack on other vibrant venues across our capital city. Despite this, the message was not angry or melancholy, but defiantly stated that we will continue to party no matter what. The collection featured classic tulle party dresses alongside all-night rave gear; think rainbow jumpers, metallic silver boots and neon in abundance. It harked back to her first collection whilst also showing how far the designer has come in two years. For Spring 2015, Goddard hosted a party instead of a scheduled presentation or show. This was partly out of necessity as the recent graduate had to show her collection on a tight budget. However, the party set an important precedent for the Molly Goddard brand personality.

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Goddard has recently teamed up with animal charity PETA to speak out against designers using fur in fashion. Many other young designers and fashion students also helped to write an open letter to designers who still use fur, suggesting that the future of fashion is looking much more ethical. It is becoming more and more difficult for young designers to break through, but Goddard has proven it is not impossible. She makes fashion fun again, as proven by the exhibition Goddard hosted at the NOW Gallery that opened earlier this month where the public are invited to come and embroider brightly coloured 7-metre long tulle hanging from the gallery ceiling. This interactive exhibition shows Goddard’s lack of prentension about fashion. It runs until 27th January and Goddard told Dazed magazine that she hopes it will encourage young people to take up traditional design skills, such as embroidery.

It is not too soon to predict that Molly Goddard is going to define young London fashion. She celebrates feminity and youth, creating a brand for the future.

Words by Sophie Wilson

Holly and Eleanor are your fashion editors

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